Since you’ve been following my adventures in Japan, you know I’m always searching for those off-the-beaten-path experiences, the stories whispered by the wind instead of shouted from a tour bus.
Legend or truth, let me lead you to Sandanbeki on our treasure map. It’s a somewhat hidden place in Wakayama Prefecture where the waves crash against towering cliffs, and the secrets of ancient pirates still echo in the sea caves below.
Yes, pirates.
We may remember images of Johnny Depp and the movie Pirates of the Caribbean at first, but Japan’s history is full of its own seafaring adventurers, rogue mariners, and powerful naval clans. And Sandanbeki? Well, it was the perfect hideout for some of the most notorious among them.
So the story goes that it’s the Heian period (794-1185 AD), and Tagamaru, a name that strikes fear into the hearts of coastal villagers, commands a fearsome crew. He terrorizes the region, raiding ships laden with silks, rice, and yes, probably a fair share of gold. Where does he stash his loot? The answer lies beneath the majestic Sandanbeki cliffs.
To access the caves today, you descend 36 meters by elevator deep into the heart of the rock. The crashing waves are deafening. The air is damp and salty. It’s easy to feel the echoes of the past here. You can almost hear the clanging of swords and the hushed whispers of pirates plotting their next raid.
But as I wandered through the caves, amongst the recreations of pirate ships and historical displays, a question nagged at me: What kind of treasure were these pirates really guarding?
We often think of pirates as single-minded plunderers, driven only by greed for gold and jewels. But I began to wonder if the “treasure” at Sandanbeki was something more subtle, more strategic, more… Japanese.
After all, these pirates weren’t just isolated outlaws. They were part of a complex web of regional power struggles. Tagamaru and his crew weren’t just stealing from random merchants; they were playing a role in a larger game of territorial control and naval dominance.
So, what was the real treasure hidden in Sandanbeki?
Strategic Advantage: The caves provided a perfect, natural fortress. The cliffs offered an unparalleled vantage point to spot approaching ships. The complex network of tunnels allowed for quick escapes and hidden ambushes. In a time of constant conflict, this strategic advantage was far more valuable than any chest of gold. This was not just a hideout, it was a strategic fortress for the Kumano naval forces.
Local Knowledge: The pirates knew the treacherous currents, the hidden reefs, and the unpredictable weather patterns of the Kumano Sea. This knowledge was crucial for their survival and their ability to evade capture. It was a treasure passed down through generations of seafaring families.
Connections and Alliances: It’s unlikely that Tagamaru operated entirely alone. He must have had alliances with local lords, merchants, or even rival pirate groups. These connections provided him with intelligence, supplies, and safe harbor. In a world where loyalty was a valuable currency, these alliances were a treasure to be carefully cultivated.
Something Sacred? Inside the Sandanbeki caves, you’ll find a shrine dedicated to Benzaiten, the goddess of water, music, and prosperity. It’s one of Japan’s largest bronze statues of Benzaiten, surrounded by hundreds of hanging lanterns. The cave has many natural shapes and formations to observe. Could this shrine have been something more than it is today? This sacred location and the Benzaiten deity tie deeply into the narrative and history of this place.
As I explored the Sandanbeki caves, I was reminded that “treasure” is often in the eye of the beholder. It’s not always about the gold and jewels, but about the things that truly sustain us: knowledge, strategy, and the strength of community.
And while you won’t find any maps marking the spot for buried treasure, I encourage you to visit Sandanbeki, wander through the caves, listen to the waves, and ask yourself: what hidden treasures do these pirates want to tell me?
Planning your own treasure hunt:
Getting There: Shirahama is easily accessible from Osaka via the JR Kuroshio limited express train (about 2.5 hours). Shirahama also has a small airport with 50-minute flights to and from Haneda Airport in Tokyo.
Best Time to Visit: While August is popular with Japanese tourists, I recommend visiting in the spring, early summer, or fall for cooler temperatures and fewer crowds.
Beyond the Caves: Don’t miss the opportunity to explore Shirahama’s other attractions, including its beautiful beach, hot springs, and the Tore Tore Ichiba fish market.
Language Tip: While English is limited, the JR train station is fully equipped with signage in English. There are also many English brochures for local attractions that you can receive for free inside JR Shirahama Station.
Cave Tour Info: Views at the top of the cliffs are free, but the tour of the caves costs 1500 yen. Just so you know, the elevator to the caves is not so easy to find since it’s located inside the gift shop!
The Real Treasure Is . . .
As I stood at the exit of Sandanbeki’s caves, watching the sunlight dance across the crashing waves below, I realized that the true treasure of this place isn’t gold or strategic advantage or even ancient pirate lore. It’s the way it connects us to something timeless – the human drive to explore, to seek refuge, to build power, and yes, sometimes to hide our most valuable possessions away from prying eyes.
So pack your metaphorical spyglass and set sail for Sandanbeki. The pirates may be long gone, but their spirits linger in these ancient cliffs and caves. And who knows? You might just discover a treasure of your own – not one that glitters, but one that stays with you long after you’ve returned home.