The noodles just kept coming!
I’ve always loved soba, those brownish-gray buckwheat noodles popular in northern Japan. I like them hot in a rich broth, or served cold with a side of dipping sauce. They always bring back great memories of my first visit to Japan. But nothing could have prepared me for what I experienced that day at Azumaya Wanko Soba in the city of Morioka, Iwate.
My wife had recommended the restaurant. She said it was a unique dining experience, but I didn’t truly understand until I got there. Wanko soba isn’t just a meal; it’s an interactive test of your appetite and stamina. And as a traveler, I can tell you it’s the kind of authentic, unforgettable experience you’re always hoping to find.
My Secret Gift of Skipping the Line
My first challenge was getting in. Although I arrived before they opened for lunch, I was still too late to get a ticket for that lunchtime. You see, they distribute a limited number of tickets (only 155, they said) just 30 minutes before opening, so people line up outside about an hour before. Missing this lunch opportunity meant I’d have to try again for dinner if I wanted this soba, so I decided to be there 2 hours in advance.
As I sat outside, a staff member came out and greeted me. I explained that I was lining up for the evening meal before everyone else. She went back inside and brought out the owner, who came directly to me and showed me how to use the ticket machine. “The sign says ticket distribution starts 30 minutes before opening,” I said, confused. He looked at me, smiled, and handed me a ticket. “You’re special,” he said.
That small act of kindness felt so good. With my ticket in hand, I had a couple of hours to relax in a nearby hot spring. When I returned, a long line had formed, and I was so happy I already had my ticket. This is the kind of insider knowledge that can make your trip so much better.
The Noodle Challenge Begins
Once inside, I was given an apron and a beautifully printed postcard. Then, my personal server explained the rules of the challenge:
- “Wanko” refers to the small bowls, each holding a single mouthful of noodles.
- The server would stand across from me, ready to continuously fill my empty bowl.
- With each refill, she would enthusiastically cheer, “Hai, don don!” which means, “Yes, quickly!”
- To signal that I was finished, I had to quickly put the lid on my bowl before she could add more noodles.
The challenge began. With each “Hai, don don!” I held my bowl up, slurped in the noodles, and added a different garnish. She’d sprint back to the kitchen, and within seconds, she was back with another tray, a playful smile on her face that told me she was having fun.
I was having a great time, too, but with each trip she took to the kitchen, I felt my stomach getting fuller. When I knew I couldn’t eat another bite, I looked up, smiled with gratitude, and put the lid on my bowl.
Afterward, a staff member came over to document my achievement. They wrote my name and the number of bowls I ate on a small wooden plaque and took my photo. It felt like I had passed a test and was being celebrated for it. The average person eats about 10-15 bowls. Can you guess how many I ate?
Your Turn
It was an experience I’m so glad I signed up for. Wanko soba is more than just a meal; it’s a testament to the warmth and playful spirit of Japanese hospitality.
If you ever find yourself in Morioka City of Iwate Prefecture, you should try it, too. Stand in line for a ticket, put yourself to the test, and maybe even beat my score.
p.s. If you guessed 53 bowls, then you guessed correctly. It’s even written on the postcard to document the accomplishment.