We were on our way to Awajishima, an island known in Japan for its sweet, layered onions. As we began our drive, I thought to myself, “Why in the world would tourists be interested in a place famous for onions?” I would soon find out.
This was the last trip the three of us took together: my wife, my mother-in-law, and me. We had taken my mother-in-law on many trips through the years, but she was hard to satisfy. Inevitably, my wife always had to choose places that were the best of the best. It was a way to placate her and keep the family peace.
My mother-in-law never drove a car. She moved around in her daily life by bicycle or a 50cc scooter, slowly on quiet back roads. When my wife was young, family trips were rare. Their life was a story of survival and hard work. My wife’s father, a man with a creative spark, invented a machine that effectively cleaned carpets, which enabled them to open a Duskin franchise. He worked tirelessly, cleaning carpets by day and driving a taxi by night, a testament to the stamina of so many Japanese businessmen of his generation.
Tragically, he passed away at just 54, devastating the family. My wife was only 17 at the time, and her steadfast hero was gone. My mother-in-law, who had already endured her own childhood trauma, now faced the unfathomable loss of her husband. By default, she became the owner of a business she never asked to run, right as the Japanese bubble economy was taking off. The weight of it all was immense, and she placed heavy expectations on her daughter to help her navigate the grief.
For my wife, living under those expectations has always been a delicate balance. Taking her mother to beautiful hot spring resorts became a strategy to offer comfort, to find a moment of calm, and to keep the peace.
And so, we found ourselves on the way to Awajishima.
An Island of Many Layers
Getting to Awajishima is an experience in itself. Though no trains run to the island, buses from Kobe are a great option. Whether by car or bus, your journey begins on the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world. For me, driving across it was spectacular. It felt like a gateway to another world, with the sparkling expanse of the Seto Inland Sea on one side and the green hills of the island drawing you closer on the other. It’s a breathtaking welcome.
The focus of our trip was a stay at a gorgeous hot spring resort, and it was everything we hoped for. The staff greeted us with such warmth, showing us to a spacious room where they served us delicate Japanese sweets and tea. We soaked in the large, soothing hot tubs, letting the high-quality spring water melt away our worries. That evening, we were treated to a gourmet meal that was a masterful fusion of Japanese and French cuisine. It was the first time I had ever tasted foie gras. Surrounded by the property’s beautiful flower gardens, it felt like a true sanctuary.
But Awajishima offers so many more layers to discover.
The Naruto Whirlpools: My wife and her mother have always loved water. They’ve always been fascinated with watching the ocean, soaking in hot pools, and enjoying nature. I believe she would have been mesmerized by the raw power of the Naruto whirlpools, where the tide forces massive, swirling vortexes into existence. It’s a dramatic and humbling display of nature’s energy.
The Naruto whirlpools, located in the Naruto Strait along Shikoku’s coast, are caused by tidal flows between the Seto Inland Sea and the Pacific Ocean, combined with the strait’s unique underwater geography. These whirlpools appear about every six hours, usually visible for one to two hours in the morning and afternoon. Under optimal conditions, they can reach up to 20 meters wide, but may be barely visible on calm days. Be sure to check the whirlpool schedule when planning your trip.
Izanagi Shrine: Deeper still, you find the island’s spiritual heart. The Izanagi Shrine is said to be the spot where the gods Izanagi and Izanami created the first island of Japan. It’s a place of profound peace and ancient myth, a quiet layer of history that feels worlds away from the modern bridge. Unique to this shrine is a 900-year-old camphor tree about 30 meters tall, known for how two trees grew together as one, symbolizing a married couple. People visit the tree to pray for love, a happy marriage, and safe childbirth.
Fields of Flowers & Sweet Onions: From the Awaji Farm Park to fields all over, the island is painted with seasonal flowers. And of course, there are the famous onions. They’re not just delicious as tempura; they’re the essence of the island, grown in the mineral-rich soil and sweetened by the sea air.
Since that trip a couple years ago, my mother-in-law’s health has declined. She has developed dementia, and we now care for her with the help of a nursing facility. The memories of that trip have reminded me how complicated and deep family relationships can be, and how a place, like a person, can hold so many surprising layers.
Awajishima taught me that the most meaningful discoveries often come from the most unexpected places. Just as we peeled back the layers of this island, from its relaxing hot springs to its famous onions, I’ve risked peeling back our own family story to share and relate with you. In that luxurious hot spring resort, we found a moment of peace amidst years of struggle. Even in the simple sweetness of an Awaji onion, we tasted the essence of a place shaped by sea and soil.
Sometimes the greatest journeys aren’t to the most famous destinations, but to the places that surprise us with their depth. An island, an onion, a family: each reveals its complexity and its beauty one layer at a time. What layers might you discover on your own journey to Awajishima? What unexpected depths await in a place you might otherwise overlook?
In our rush to see the iconic sights of Japan, we sometimes miss these quieter revelations. But it’s often in these overlooked corners, such as islands famous for vegetables, in family-run hot springs, beside ancient trees, that we find the most profound connections to both the place and ourselves.
Thank you for joining me on this journey through Awajishima’s many layers. Until next time, may you find unexpected depth in the places that surprise you most.