What does your dream trip to Japan look like? Maybe it’s wandering through neon-lit cities, or finding serenity in a temple garden. But what if it included a place that feels plucked from a Studio Ghibli film? That’s the feeling you get when you discover Ginzan Onsen.
You’ve probably seen the pictures: a snow-draped village glowing with lantern light. Wooden inns line the river, their reflections shimmering in the icy water. It’s the kind of image that shows up on postcards and Instagram feeds, especially in winter.
But what happens when the snow melts? I wanted to find out, so I visited Ginzan Onsen in the middle of Japan’s sweltering summer. What I discovered was a completely different, and equally charming, side of this tiny town. The icy bridges I’d imagined were gone, replaced by a rushing river. The green mountains hugged the village, their cool air a welcome break from the heat below. I dipped my feet into the public hot spring footbath, wandered the short main street up to the waterfall, and enjoyed how unhurried everything felt. Even in summer, Ginzan Onsen is a place that slows you down.
Getting There: It's Easier Than You Think
Getting to Ginzan Onsen is simpler than it looks on the map. From Tokyo, take the Yamagata Shinkansen (bullet train) to Oishida Station, which takes about three hours. From there, it’s a 40-minute bus ride into the mountains. A taxi is an option if you miss the bus, but it’s a bit of a splurge at around ¥6,000. That said, if you’re splitting the cost with a few friends, it’s a great way to get dropped right at the town’s entrance without a wait.
If you only have time for a day trip, that’s enough to enjoy a stroll through the village, try the footbath, stop for a bowl of soba or a sweet treat, and take in the beautiful architecture. Even just a few hours here will feel like stepping back into another era of Japan, leaving the rush of modern life behind.
The Magic of Staying Overnight
As lovely as Ginzan Onsen is by day, it truly transforms at night. When the day-trippers leave and the lanterns flicker on, the river and the wooden inns glow in a way that makes the village feel like a quiet, hushed, and magical stage set. Staying overnight in one of the ryokan means you get to experience that magic on a deeper, more personal level. You’ll get a full Japanese dinner, a traditional breakfast, and a long, relaxing soak in the hot spring baths that make onsen culture so special.
Ryokan here are small, with only a dozen or so in town, so rooms book out months in advance. If you want to visit in the winter, you’ll need to plan well ahead. For summer or autumn, you usually have more flexibility, but I’d still recommend booking several months in advance. On my car camping trip, I only stopped for the day. Next time, though, staying overnight is high on my list.
A Tale of Two Seasons: Which Ginzan Onsen Is for You?
Ginzan Onsen is beautiful in every season. Summer brings lush greenery and a cool escape from the lowlands. Winter brings the snow-covered fairytale scene that made the town famous. Both have their appeal.
When I visited, I loved the green mountain backdrop and the slower, less crowded feel of summer. Walking up to the waterfall and feeling the coolness made summer feel pleasant. It was also enjoyable interacting with other friendly tourists and taking photos together. But one day, I’d love to return in mid-winter, just to cross the snowy bridge at night and see the lanterns reflected in the frozen river.
If You Have More Time in Yamagata
Not far from Ginzan Onsen is another highlight: Zao Onsen and the Zao Mountains. In summer, you can hike up to Okama Crater Lake, a striking turquoise volcanic lake that instantly reminded me of Oregon’s Crater Lake. Only this one is smaller, more vivid and varied in color, and surrounded by jagged volcanic peaks instead of forest. In winter, Zao transforms into a ski resort with steaming hot spring baths at the end of the day and the surreal sight of the famous “snow monsters,” trees coated in thick ice. It’s a year-round destination that shows just how much variety Yamagata offers. The prefecture is also one of Japan’s top fruit regions, especially known for its cherries in early summer and juicy pears in autumn, so if you’re traveling in season, keep an eye out for local fruit stands.
Final Thoughts
Ginzan Onsen doesn’t have the scale of Hakone or the fame of Beppu, but that’s exactly what makes it special. It’s small, intimate, and feels like a secret tucked away in the mountains of Yamagata. If you’re planning a trip to Japan and want to experience a quieter, more nostalgic side of the country, Ginzan Onsen is worth adding to your itinerary. Even if it’s just for a few hours, you’ll carry the memory of this hidden hot spring town long after your trip ends.