I didn’t realize what a surprise I was in for when I stayed with my first host family in Japan. Their home had a very small bath, so they thought the best thing for me was to take me to the public bath. I had heard that the public baths and hot springs were separated by gender, so I wasn’t super worried at first. Besides, I had played sports in high school and was used to the locker-room showers.
After we checked in at the reception for the public bath, my host father and I went into the changing room. He had already briefed me about washing my body first before getting in the tub of hot water for soaking. Everything seemed fine and we made our way into the bath area. I went to the washing area and started washing my body.
Suddenly, I see a small-framed lady in rubber boots walking across this room filled with naked men. Obviously, she was a cleaning lady and was used to the place. But then, she stopped, and started having a friendly conversation with a guy who was walking from the washing area to the big tub. There, in his birthday suit, my host father and she chatted for a couple minutes, just like any other daily conversation.
I was frozen in my seat, wondering if this was normal and waiting for her to leave.
A Comprehensive Guide to Hot Spring Etiquette
Since that first unexpected experience in the public bath, I have become a real fan of Japanese hot springs (onsen 温泉). They are a quintessential Japanese experience offering relaxation, therapeutic benefits, and a glimpse into traditional culture. However, enjoying an onsen requires understanding and respecting the proper etiquette. Let me share how to ensure a pleasant and respectful experience for you and others:
I. Before Entering the Onsen:
- Undress Completely (Typically): Onsen are generally enjoyed in the nude. There are separate changing rooms and baths for men and women. You will not wear a swimsuit unless specifically stated by the onsen (some modern onsen or those catering to international tourists may allow them).
- Respect Tattoo Policies: Traditional onsen often prohibit people with tattoos due to their historical association with organized crime and the mafia (yakuza). However, policies are becoming more relaxed, especially in tourist areas.
- Covering Tattoos: Some onsen allow entry if tattoos are covered with waterproof bandages or tape. Check with the onsen beforehand.
- Private Onsen: Consider booking a private onsen (kashikiri 貸し切り) in your room or at the facility, where tattoo restrictions usually don’t apply.
- Tattoo-Friendly Onsen: Look for onsen that specifically advertise as being tattoo-friendly (search for “tattoo friendly onsen Japan”).
- Leave Valuables: Most onsen provide lockers or baskets for your clothes and belongings. Don’t bring valuables into the bathing area.
- Take a Washcloth (Tenugui 手拭い): Take a hand towel or small washcloth (tenugui) upon entering. Many onsen provide these for you. You can use this for washing, modest covering, or drying off. Don’t submerge the washcloth in the bathwater.
II. The Washing Area:
This is arguably the most important part of onsen etiquette. You must thoroughly wash your body before entering the communal bath.
- Choose a Washing Station: Find an available washing station. Each station typically has a stool, a faucet with hot and cold water, and a showerhead.
- Sit on the Stool: Always sit on the stool while washing. Never stand up and splash water on others.
- Wash Thoroughly: Use soap and shampoo to wash your entire body, including your hair. Rinse completely. Don’t leave any soap residue. Pay particular attention to your feet, as they will be entering the communal bath.
- Rinse Your Washing Station: After you’re finished, rinse the stool and washing area thoroughly to remove any soap or hair. Leave it clean for the next person.
III. Entering the Onsen Bath:
- Enter Slowly and Quietly: Carefully enter the bathwater. Avoid splashing or making loud noises.
- Adjust to the Temperature: First-time visitors are often surprised by how hot onsen waters can be—sometimes reaching up to 43°C/110°F. If it feels too hot, don’t force yourself to submerge completely right away. Start by dipping your feet and legs, then gradually work your way in. You can also look for cooler baths, as many onsen offer multiple pools with different temperatures.
- Don’t Submerge Your Washcloth: Keep your washcloth out of the water, either folded on your head or placed on the side of the bath.
- Don’t Wash in the Bath: Never use soap or shampoo in the communal bath.
- Don’t Swim or Play: Onsen are for relaxation and quiet contemplation. Swimming or playing is considered disrespectful.
- Keep Your Hair Up: If you have long hair, tie it up to prevent it from getting in the water.
- Don’t Stare: Avoid staring at other bathers. Maintain a respectful and discreet demeanor.
- Don’t Drink the Water: The onsen water is not for drinking. However, if the spring water is drinkable, there will be fountains with ladles where you can drink the water.
- Limit Your Time: Be mindful of other bathers and limit your time in the onsen, especially if it’s crowded. Typically, 15-20 minutes is a good amount of time.
- Exit Slowly and Carefully: When exiting, stand up slowly to avoid dizziness.
IV. After the Onsen:
- Towel Dry: Use your washcloth to dry yourself off as much as possible before returning to the changing room. Signs at the changing room door will tell you to do this.
- Dress and Relax: Get dressed in the changing room. Many onsen provide amenities like hair dryers, combs, and skincare products.
- Hydrate: Drink plenty of water after bathing to rehydrate. Onsen often have vending machines with various beverages.
- Enjoy the Afterglow: Take some time to relax in the onsen’s lounge area and enjoy the lingering warmth and relaxation.
Beyond the Strangeness of Being Naked
After I got over my initial modesty and surprise, I soon realized nobody was paying any attention to me at all. Everyone was simply focused on their own relaxation. This cultural difference taught me a valuable lesson.
As I became more comfortable with onsen culture, I began seeking out different experiences. On my travels, I’ve had the chance to experience onsen in various settings, from the communal baths in Western-style hotels and traditional Ryokans, to the more rustic charm of riverside hot springs in Wakayama. With so many exceptional onsen in Japan, each experience has been uniquely soothing and memorable.
Your Onsen Experience
After a few onsen visits, you’ll start to compare the quality of the spring water in different places. Some places have a distinct mineral scent of sulfur that hits your nostrils when you walk in, while other places are distinct for the sound of water gently lapping against smooth stones. There is also the sensation of alternating between the indoor and outdoor hot baths while feeling the crisp air around you. These sensory experiences create memories that last long after you return home.
These differences in water composition and bath settings also make for wonderful conversation starters with locals or fellow travelers. I’ve had some of my most memorable cultural exchanges while discussing the unique properties of different onsen with Japanese bathers who were eager to recommend their favorites or explain the specific healing properties attributed to various springs.
If the thought of soaking in steaming hot water brings a smile to your face, then Japan’s incredible onsen culture is something you absolutely must experience. Even if you’re not typically a bath person, understanding and participating in the onsen ritual is a fantastic way to immerse yourself in Japanese culture.
Whether you find yourself digging your own little hot spring pool by a river or enjoying the mineral-rich bath at a traditional Ryokan, the experience of a Japanese onsen is truly special. Embrace the warmth, let your worries melt away, and enjoy this wonderful aspect of Japanese culture.
As surprising as it might sound, I hardly notice anymore if a cleaning lady comes into the bath area. I can even imagine myself having a friendly conversation with her just like my host father did many years ago, of course, all while my hand towel is placed strategically in the right place.
Have you experienced an onsen before, or are you planning to on your next trip? Leave a comment with your questions or experiences – I love helping fellow travelers prepare for this special ritual. And if you’re feeling nervous about it, remember: I was too, and now it’s my favorite Japanese tradition.