My wife and I love discovering those small, unassuming local restaurants when we travel. You know, the ones that feel like you’re being let in on a wonderful secret. In Shirahama, one of our favorite secrets is a cozy place called Kiraku. We discovered it years ago and always come back. From the moment you slide open the door, you’re greeted by the warmth of the wooden interior and the friendly call of “Irasshaimase!” from the chef behind the counter.
We always come here for one reason: a remarkable dish called the Kumanojidon.
When it arrives at your table, it looks like a beautiful, deconstructed puzzle. In the main bowl sits a bed of warm rice, artfully topped with slices of glistening, fresh sashimi like tuna, yellowtail, sea bream, and other local catches. Alongside it are several small dishes containing the real magic: a bowl of freshly grated Yamaimo (a silky mountain yam), a small bowl holding a bright, raw egg, a dab of tangy pickled plum paste, a scoop of savory Kinzanji Miso, and of course, wasabi and soy sauce.
The Story in the Name
If you don’t already know, a donburi is a classic Japanese comfort food: a simple bowl of rice with a topping. But the Kumanojidon is anything but simple. Its name, “Kumanoji,” refers to the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails that wind through the mountains of this region. For over a thousand years, pilgrims walked these sacred routes, finding spiritual harmony by visiting different shrines and temples.
Fittingly, eating the Kumanojidon is like taking a pilgrimage of flavors in a single bowl. And for my wife and me, it has become a cherished ritual.
There’s always a moment of anticipation as we begin to assemble our bowls. First, we pour the silky, luscious Yamaimo over the fish. Next, we whip the golden egg and drizzle it on top. Then come the finishing touches. The unique sourness of the plum paste adds a bright kick. The deep, complex Kinzanji Miso, a local specialty, brings a savory depth. Together, they create a perfect harmony of flavors.
Then comes the best part: you mix it all together. The elegant presentation disappears into what can only be described as a glorious mess. It sounds a little crazy, doesn’t it? But trust me.
And the first bite? It’s a revelation.
The Glorious Mess
The fresh, clean taste of the sashimi, the savory depth of the miso, the sharp kick of wasabi, the bright tang of the plum, all brought together by the rich egg and the creamy, unifying texture of the yamaimo. It’s every flavor at once (salty, sour, savory, fresh) in perfect, delicious harmony.
For us, a meal like this is more than just food. It’s messy, a little complicated, and incredibly satisfying. It’s a perfect reflection of the best kind of travel, and maybe the best kind of life, too. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the most beautiful things aren’t perfectly arranged; they’re the ones you joyfully mix together yourself.
If you ever find yourself in Shirahama, I can’t recommend it enough. Please stop by Kiraku, order the Kumanojidon, and enjoy your own delicious pilgrimage.