The sea raged with a fury that threatened to swallow everything in its path. Around midnight on September 16, 1890, disaster struck off the coast of Kii Ōshima, near Kushimoto in Wakayama, Japan. A majestic ship called the Ertuğrul, the pride of the Ottoman Navy, succumbed to the treacherous reefs and stormy weather. It broke apart and sunk to the ocean bottom there just off Kushimoto.
On board were around 650 sailors and officers making the long voyage for an official visit to Japan from Istanbul. They had already completed their mission of friendship and were beginning their journey home. Only 69 crew members survived, while 587 of them lost their lives. None of them could have imagined the fate that awaited them.
A Personal Discovery
I had never heard this story until a recent trip with my wife around the Kii Peninsula. One quiet afternoon in Kushimoto, we crossed the scenic bridge to Kii Oshima and stumbled upon the Turkish Memorial Museum.
While the immediate aftermath of the sinking is shrouded in the chaos of the storm, the response from the local Japanese community in Kushimoto speaks volumes about human compassion. The rescue efforts and subsequent actions reveal a deep sense of empathy and respect for the lives lost.
From Tragedy to Enduring Friendship
In the grim days that followed, 150 bodies were recovered from the wreckage and laid to rest in a newly established cemetery in February 1891. This act of providing a dignified burial was just the beginning of a remarkable story of international friendship forged in the crucible of disaster.
On September 15, 1891, the first anniversary of the tragic sinking, a monument was erected 400 meters (1,300 ft) from the accident site, close to the Kashinozaki Lighthouse of Kushimoto. This early memorial served as a poignant reminder of the lives lost and the shared humanity between the people of Japan and the Ottoman Empire.
The story doesn’t end there. The initial gesture of compassion and remembrance blossomed into a deeper connection over the decades:
- On April 5, 1929, the Japanese-Turkish Trade Association erected a second memorial stone.
- Emperor Hirohito himself visited the site on June 3 of the same year.
- Construction of a grander monument began on October 22, 1936.
- The grand opening ceremony took place on June 3, 1937, with the Turkish ambassador in attendance.
The Museum: A Treasury of Memories
To further enshrine this remarkable story and the enduring friendship it fostered, a museum was established near the memorial in 1974 through the collaborative efforts of the Kushimoto Municipality and the Turkish Embassy in Japan.
Inside the museum, we saw relics that brought history to life:
- Artifacts salvaged from the wreckage by local fishermen
- Personal belongings and photographs of the ship’s officers and seamen
- A detailed ship model of the Ertuğrul
- A dedicated corner honoring Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of the Turkish Republic
- Items sent from Kushimoto’s twin cities in Turkey, Mersin and Yakakent
The care taken to preserve these memories reflects how deeply this event affected both nations. As we walked through the exhibits, what struck me most was how a devastating tragedy had transformed into a bridge between cultures.
Beyond Japan: The Legacy Continues
The legacy of the Ertuğrul extends beyond the shores of Japan. In Turkey, in the Topyanı neighborhood of Ünye, a town on the Black Sea, a monument was erected by the “Association of Turkish-Japanese Friendship and Frigate Ertuğrul Martyrs” in commemoration of the Turkish sailors. The opening ceremony on September 14, 2014, marked the 124th anniversary of the disaster and was attended by the Ambassador of Japan to Turkey and Turkish high-ranking officials. Although I have not yet visited these sister cities in Turkey, I hope to be able to someday.
The Legacy of Compassion
What makes the story of the Ertuğrul so powerful is how a single tragedy became the foundation for over a century of friendship between nations. When I stood before the memorial, watching the same sea that claimed so many lives, I was struck by how acts of kindness during our darkest moments can create bonds that span generations. The Japanese villagers who rushed to save strangers from a distant land couldn’t have known they were creating an enduring symbol of international goodwill that would still resonate 135 years later.
Visitor Information: Off the Beaten Path
Although I often write about places near significant tourist hubs and how easy it is for travelers to get off the beaten path to see them without going too far, this is not one of them. The Turkish Memorial Museum, at least a 3-hour train ride from Osaka, is quite out of the way and may be difficult to add to your itinerary unless your intention is to spend time in Wakayama.
Yet, I feel compelled to share this beautiful story with travelers venturing to Japan, particularly those seeking deeper cultural and historical insights beyond the bustling cities.
If You Go:
- Location: Kushimoto, Wakayama Prefecture, on Kii Oshima island
- Hours: The museum is open from 9:00 to 17:00 local time
- Admission: Free for the monument; small fee for the museum. We paid 500 yen each.
- Significance: Ranked first on the local municipality’s must-see list and the third most-visited place in the region
A visit to the Kushimoto Turkish Memorial and Museum offers a powerful and moving experience. It is a place where tragedy gave birth to an enduring friendship, a testament to the power of human compassion and the importance of international goodwill.
By witnessing the memorials and exploring the museum’s collection, you can gain a profound understanding of this pivotal event in Japanese-Turkish relations and appreciate the enduring bonds that can arise from even the most heartbreaking circumstances. I was reminded how important international relationships are. They live in places like this, kept alive by those who remember.
If You Can't Go:
Even if you can’t visit the Turkish Memorial Museum to see the site yourself, I would recommend watching the movie 125 Years Memory. This movie came out in 2015 to further commemorate the relationship established between Japan and Turkey. If you can access and view it, you’ll hear some characteristic Wakayama ben (local accent) as you read the subtitles. Don’t forget your box of tissues!