We chose to drive the curvy roads up into the heart of Wakayama, Japan. We were headed to the top of Mount Koya and wanted to experience an overnight stay among the monks and other travelers in a buddhist temple.
Summer is hot in Wakayama, but the higher we got up the mountain, the more comfortable the temperature became. We turned off the air conditioning and rolled down the windows. Evergreen trees that cover the mountains and shade the roads make the smell in the air seem fresher.
Often seen as just part of the Kii Peninsula near Osaka, Wakayama is brimming with great places. Let me share three places that belong on any Japan traveler’s itinerary.
But first, a quick note: I haven’t included the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Routes. While incredible, they’re really a destination experience in themselves, often requiring a couple weeks and dedicated hiking or reflection, rather than a typical sightseeing spot. If that’s your goal, it absolutely belongs on your list!
1. Koya-san (Mount Koya)
Mount Koya, a UNESCO World Heritage site and sacred center of Shingon Buddhism, feels like a true hidden treasure. I’m so glad we stayed here. As a large complex with over 100 buildings (including 50+ temples), visitors can experience temple lodging (shukubo), meditation, Buddhist vegetarian cuisine (shojin-ryori), and explore historic temples.
Our overnight stay in a temple lodging (shukubo) let me experience less common aspects of Japanese culture that are seldom experienced by travelers. The beauty and serenity of the temples and gardens were unforgettable.
While there, I walked to Okunoin Cemetery, Japan’s largest and one of its most sacred burial grounds, with over 200,000 memorials. Kobo Daishi’s (the founder of Shingon Buddhism) mausoleum is located here. Whether you’re drawn by the history (it’s the resting place of prominent monks, feudal lords, and samurai) or simply seeking tranquility, the walk through paths lined with giant cedars, moss-covered tombstones, and lanterns is unforgettable. Okunoin is open 24 hours and free to visit.
2. Shirahama Resort Town
We’ve visited Shirahama so many times, it has captured our hearts and become a place where we plan to live longer-term someday. Known for its high-quality onsen (hot springs), this coastal gem feels both accessible (a quick flight from Tokyo or train from Osaka) and worlds away. Here’s a glimpse of spots we love:
Shirarahama Beach: The heart of Shirahama’s summer scene and often ranked among Japan’s best. Its standout feature is the 90% quartz white sand imported from Australia! With a sister beach relationship with Waikiki, it shares that relaxed vibe. Perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and summer fireworks. I’ve only seen it crowded in August; off-season strolls are lovely.
Tore-tore Ichiba Fish Market: As one of Western Japan’s largest seafood markets you’ll see fresh catches from the Kii Channel as you wander the aisles. If you time it right, you can watch live tuna filleting demonstrations. Buy seafood, sample delicacies, or pick fresh ingredients for grilling at the adjacent barbecue area. Our insider tip: we go in the evenings for half-price sushi and sashimi! It’s a great spot for meals or unique souvenirs like umeboshi (pickled plums).
Sandanbeki: Spend time exploring these steep cliffs stretching 2 kilometers along the coast and plunging 50 meters down to the water. Panoramic ocean views are great for selfies and group photos, but the real adventure is below! An elevator descends into a large sea cave, historically a pirate hideout. Feel the waves’ power and learn about local history. A unique experience not to miss.
Adventure World: A unique theme park combining a zoo, aquarium, and rides. Famous for its successful giant panda breeding program, these pandas have caught the hearts of people all around Japan! You can easily fill a whole day with the safari tours, dolphin shows, the petting zoo, and family rides. Some of our best memories are taking our son here when he was small and seeing him watch the pandas, be fascinated by the “jumping water” dolphins, and be called up front to meet the sea lion.
Hot Springs (Onsen): Shirahama is its onsen. With a 1,300-year history, it’s one of Japan’s oldest hot spring resorts. Experience the renowned therapeutic waters in ryokan, hotels (many with ocean views), historic public baths like the incredible ocean-side Saki-no-yu, or free foot baths (ashiyu) around town. Soaking here is the ultimate way to unwind.
3. Nachi Waterfall
I arrived at Nachi Waterfall and the Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine after a somewhat short hike on the Kumano Kodo. Walking around the shrine area, I couldn’t stop looking at the spectacular mountain views. Then I reached the viewpoint combining the shrine’s three-story pagoda and Nachi Waterfall – Japan’s tallest single-drop waterfall at 133 meters.
While Wakayama sees fewer crowds than other parts of Japan, this combination of majestic waterfall, vibrant shrine, and pagoda creates one of the country’s most iconic and photographed landscapes.
Bonus Tip: A Personal Favorite - Wakayama Castle
Although it didn’t make my top 3 list for this newsletter, Wakayama Castle is absolutely worth visiting and holds a special place in my heart. Let me tell you why. After a fancy meal nearby, I asked my now-wife to marry me while walking around the castle grounds one cold evening. It caught her completely by surprise, partly due to local superstitions (which I knew nothing about!) that apparently discourage proposals there. Despite the surprise, she said yes, and we’re living happily ever after!
While Japan has many great castles, don’t miss this one when in Wakayama. You’ll learn about local and imperial history, and perhaps enjoy a walk under the same cherry trees where my love affair with Wakayama began.
Wakayama truly has something for everyone – deep history, stunning nature, coastal relaxation, and even a touch of romance (as I can personally attest!). It’s a region that rewards exploration and leaves a lasting impression.
Which of these spots calls to you the most? Let me know in a comment below!